I have been asked for a wedding picture so I thought I would post it here. The ending of our trip still to come. I'm working on it ....
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
The Taj Mahal
Sunday Feb 10, 2008
Agra, India
We check into our hotel and were happy to find that we have the best room in the hotel. We are on the top floor in the corner facing the Taj Mahal. We leave late afternoon for the Taj. Vehicles are not allowed to drive all the way up so we drove as far as we could and then took a tuk tuk (auto-rickshaw) the rest of the way. That in itself was an adventure for us.
I had very high expectations for the Taj and was a bit worried that I would be disappointed when I saw it in person. I was not. The Taj is absolutely beautiful. I think it is even more so given that it was built as a monument to love. For those of you who don’t know, here is the story …
Maharaja Shah Jehan was the Mughal ruler of India. He had two wives by arranged marriage - Princesses of Persia and Afghani. In the Muslim tradition, women are not allowed to show their faces to men. So in order for his wives to get a chance to shop, the bazaar was brought into the palace and the shops were run by the wives and daughters of the shop keepers. It was in one of these shops that the Maharaja Jehan met the daughter of one of the shop keepers and feel madly in love. He married her after two years despite his father’s displeasure at marrying a shopkeeper’s daughter. This wife became the favorite wife. She would travel with him and she died on one of these trips giving birth to their fourteenth child which was a stillborn. Maharaja Jehan was so upset by the death of his wife and he missed her so much that he started construction of the Taj Mahal as a monument to her. The Taj Mahal took 22 years to build. It is built of the finest marble that was brought in from outside Jaiper and the marble inlay work was done by artists from Persia.
The Maharaja wanted to build another monument directly across from the Taj Mahal (across the river) in black marble for himself so they would be able to face each other for eternity but his son had him thrown in jail and it was never built. We have heard two stories of why he was thrown in jail and are not quite sure which is true so I’ll tell you both versions and will confirm when I can get online to do some research.
1) The Taj was really expensive to build and to build another monument would have bankrupted the country so the son had no choice but to put his father in jail.
2) The son was greedy for power and had his oldest two brothers killed. He put his father in jail so that he could rule the country.
After Maharaja Jehangir’s death, his daughter had him buried beside his beloved wife in the Taj Mahal.
There are a number of reasons why the Taj is so beautiful:
1. The architecture – the unique design and the massive scale
2. The marble – the reason you want to see the Taj either at sunset or sunrise is because the marble changes color
3. Artistic touches - the incredible detailed carvings and marble inlay is beautiful up close and spectacular at a distance
Pictures definitely don’t do the Taj justice. This is one monument that you need to see in person.
Monday Feb 11, 2008
This is going to be a travel day for us. We started by visiting the Agra Fort which is where the Maharajas of Agra lived. It is a massive complex comprised of several palaces. Today, only a third is open to visitors, the rest is used by the Indian Army as a training facility.
Though the palaces had very beautiful features, I couldn’t help thinking that they couldn’t compare to the Taj.
We had a four hour car ride from Agra to Delhi and I am writing this excerpt on a train from Delhi to Haridwar. Haridwar is on the Ganges river which is the holiest river for Hindus. So far on this trip, we have seen the natural beauty of India is Kerela and the magnificent historical sites in Northern India. Our next phase will be about the spiritual side of India.
It’s been a long day and we have a 4 hour train ride to Haridwar. I’m signing off now. I’ll post this tonight if I can get Internet service from the hotel. As you can tell, I didn't get this posted in India. I am back in Austin trying to get recover from the stomach flu (or otherwise known as Dehli Belly) and jet lag. Look for my final post of Haridwar and Dehli probably by the end of the week.
Agra, India
We check into our hotel and were happy to find that we have the best room in the hotel. We are on the top floor in the corner facing the Taj Mahal. We leave late afternoon for the Taj. Vehicles are not allowed to drive all the way up so we drove as far as we could and then took a tuk tuk (auto-rickshaw) the rest of the way. That in itself was an adventure for us.
I had very high expectations for the Taj and was a bit worried that I would be disappointed when I saw it in person. I was not. The Taj is absolutely beautiful. I think it is even more so given that it was built as a monument to love. For those of you who don’t know, here is the story …
Maharaja Shah Jehan was the Mughal ruler of India. He had two wives by arranged marriage - Princesses of Persia and Afghani. In the Muslim tradition, women are not allowed to show their faces to men. So in order for his wives to get a chance to shop, the bazaar was brought into the palace and the shops were run by the wives and daughters of the shop keepers. It was in one of these shops that the Maharaja Jehan met the daughter of one of the shop keepers and feel madly in love. He married her after two years despite his father’s displeasure at marrying a shopkeeper’s daughter. This wife became the favorite wife. She would travel with him and she died on one of these trips giving birth to their fourteenth child which was a stillborn. Maharaja Jehan was so upset by the death of his wife and he missed her so much that he started construction of the Taj Mahal as a monument to her. The Taj Mahal took 22 years to build. It is built of the finest marble that was brought in from outside Jaiper and the marble inlay work was done by artists from Persia.
The Maharaja wanted to build another monument directly across from the Taj Mahal (across the river) in black marble for himself so they would be able to face each other for eternity but his son had him thrown in jail and it was never built. We have heard two stories of why he was thrown in jail and are not quite sure which is true so I’ll tell you both versions and will confirm when I can get online to do some research.
1) The Taj was really expensive to build and to build another monument would have bankrupted the country so the son had no choice but to put his father in jail.
2) The son was greedy for power and had his oldest two brothers killed. He put his father in jail so that he could rule the country.
After Maharaja Jehangir’s death, his daughter had him buried beside his beloved wife in the Taj Mahal.
There are a number of reasons why the Taj is so beautiful:
1. The architecture – the unique design and the massive scale
2. The marble – the reason you want to see the Taj either at sunset or sunrise is because the marble changes color
3. Artistic touches - the incredible detailed carvings and marble inlay is beautiful up close and spectacular at a distance
Pictures definitely don’t do the Taj justice. This is one monument that you need to see in person.
Monday Feb 11, 2008
This is going to be a travel day for us. We started by visiting the Agra Fort which is where the Maharajas of Agra lived. It is a massive complex comprised of several palaces. Today, only a third is open to visitors, the rest is used by the Indian Army as a training facility.
Though the palaces had very beautiful features, I couldn’t help thinking that they couldn’t compare to the Taj.
We had a four hour car ride from Agra to Delhi and I am writing this excerpt on a train from Delhi to Haridwar. Haridwar is on the Ganges river which is the holiest river for Hindus. So far on this trip, we have seen the natural beauty of India is Kerela and the magnificent historical sites in Northern India. Our next phase will be about the spiritual side of India.
It’s been a long day and we have a 4 hour train ride to Haridwar. I’m signing off now. I’ll post this tonight if I can get Internet service from the hotel. As you can tell, I didn't get this posted in India. I am back in Austin trying to get recover from the stomach flu (or otherwise known as Dehli Belly) and jet lag. Look for my final post of Haridwar and Dehli probably by the end of the week.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
North India - Udaipur and Jaipur
We are now in North India and the weather is cooler than in Mumbai and South India. We are pretty excited because we are most familiar with and love North India cuisine.
Udaipur
Udaipur, a relatively small city (population of 1/2 million) is known as the city of lakes. The lakes are all man made and fill up during monsoon season. We had a wonderful guide and had a lot of fun in Udaipur.
We started the day visiting a temple in the middle of the city which had beautiful carvings. We then made our way to the City Palace where part has been made into a museum. The royal family still has their private residence there. The Palace is beautiful with detailed carvings and paintings. Udaipur is known for miniature paintings and we admired some beautiful work at the palace. These paintings portray daily life, special occasions as well as traditional myths. The details in these miniatures are incredible to see. We bought a painting and I’m looking forward to getting it framed.
From the Palace we could see Lake Palace which has been made into a hotel where only those who are staying there or have made reservations to the restaurant can go. We went on a boat cruise around Pichola Lake to Pleasure Island. Again, we were pretty spoiled because while other travelers piled into one boat, we had a boat all to ourselves. Pleasure Island was the summer home of the royal family. It was relaxing and we enjoyed the wonderful views of the palace and the lake.
Next we went to the Old Palace and had a tour of the Crystal Furniture. The story is that the Maharana commissioned the furniture and it arrived the week after he died. The furniture was put in storage where it stayed for over a hundred years. Everything was made of crystal including a crystal bed. We then went to the grand room for a relaxing cup of Darjeeling tea.
One thing that I’m very sad about is that I can’t eat any street food (a good chance that I will get sick). I love Behl Poori which is available at my favorite Indian Restaurant in Toronto – Bombay Behl. We passed many stalls and I longed to stop for a snack …
Jaipur
We had an early start today. We caught a 7:40am flight out of Udaipur to Jaipur. Jaipur is known as the pink city. The city was painted the traditional color of welcome in honor of Prince Albert’s visit in 1883.
We visited the City Palace which is the residence of Jaipur’s royal family. The palace buildings on the palace grounds are all painted yellow to differentiate it from the rest of the city.
We started at the observatory which was built in 1716 by Maharaja Jai Singh. Young especially enjoyed this part of the tour. This Maharaja is known and the Genius Maharaja and was very interested in astrology. He had sophisticated instruments built that still work today.
The Palace was beautiful and we enjoyed walking around. It was nice to hear that the current Maharaja is really well liked. The current Maharaja’s father is known as the most handsome Maharaja. He died in England in the 1970s playing polo. The current Maharaja has a daughter so her son who is 11 years old is the next heir.
I am amazed at the detail and beauty of Indian Palaces. There are pillars carved of marble, glass inlaid mosaics, and intricate painted designs that look like wallpaper.
We saw a traditional Rajasthan dance last night. The women dance with pots on their heads. It was quite impressive as one girl put more and more pots on top of her head and continued dancing.
This morning, we started at the Amber Fort & Palace where we rode an elephant up the hill. These elephants are brought in from the neighboring villages by their trainers as far as 10km away. The elephants all have official government numbers and are only allowed to make 5 trips up the hill with tourists.
This was where the Maharaja lived prior to the City Palace and we found the history interesting. There are 12 apartments for the Maharaja’s twelve wives. This was the most “touristy” place we have been so far on our trip (we leave for the Taj Mahal in Agra tomorrow). We have been fortunate in that most of the places we have visited have not been crowded.
We then drove to Samode where we toured the palace, had a delicious lunch, and rode a camel through the village. The camel ride was a lot of fun but we definitely felt like a spectacle. We were two of maybe 20 tourists at this palace so it was a lot quieter and we were the only tourists in the village as we rode through on a camel.
I should take a minute to talk about all of the animals we have seen in India. It is quite common to see cows, goats and pigs just wandering around the roads. We have also seen donkeys, camels and elephants. My favorite are the monkeys that you can see hanging out in trees, on ledges and on buildings.
We are now relaxing at the hotel. I caught a cold yesterday and am hoping that I can kick it quickly. We have an early morning start tomorrow as it is a 5 ½ hour drive to Agra. We are going to see the Taj Mahal!
Udaipur
Udaipur, a relatively small city (population of 1/2 million) is known as the city of lakes. The lakes are all man made and fill up during monsoon season. We had a wonderful guide and had a lot of fun in Udaipur.
We started the day visiting a temple in the middle of the city which had beautiful carvings. We then made our way to the City Palace where part has been made into a museum. The royal family still has their private residence there. The Palace is beautiful with detailed carvings and paintings. Udaipur is known for miniature paintings and we admired some beautiful work at the palace. These paintings portray daily life, special occasions as well as traditional myths. The details in these miniatures are incredible to see. We bought a painting and I’m looking forward to getting it framed.
From the Palace we could see Lake Palace which has been made into a hotel where only those who are staying there or have made reservations to the restaurant can go. We went on a boat cruise around Pichola Lake to Pleasure Island. Again, we were pretty spoiled because while other travelers piled into one boat, we had a boat all to ourselves. Pleasure Island was the summer home of the royal family. It was relaxing and we enjoyed the wonderful views of the palace and the lake.
Next we went to the Old Palace and had a tour of the Crystal Furniture. The story is that the Maharana commissioned the furniture and it arrived the week after he died. The furniture was put in storage where it stayed for over a hundred years. Everything was made of crystal including a crystal bed. We then went to the grand room for a relaxing cup of Darjeeling tea.
One thing that I’m very sad about is that I can’t eat any street food (a good chance that I will get sick). I love Behl Poori which is available at my favorite Indian Restaurant in Toronto – Bombay Behl. We passed many stalls and I longed to stop for a snack …
Jaipur
We had an early start today. We caught a 7:40am flight out of Udaipur to Jaipur. Jaipur is known as the pink city. The city was painted the traditional color of welcome in honor of Prince Albert’s visit in 1883.
We visited the City Palace which is the residence of Jaipur’s royal family. The palace buildings on the palace grounds are all painted yellow to differentiate it from the rest of the city.
We started at the observatory which was built in 1716 by Maharaja Jai Singh. Young especially enjoyed this part of the tour. This Maharaja is known and the Genius Maharaja and was very interested in astrology. He had sophisticated instruments built that still work today.
The Palace was beautiful and we enjoyed walking around. It was nice to hear that the current Maharaja is really well liked. The current Maharaja’s father is known as the most handsome Maharaja. He died in England in the 1970s playing polo. The current Maharaja has a daughter so her son who is 11 years old is the next heir.
I am amazed at the detail and beauty of Indian Palaces. There are pillars carved of marble, glass inlaid mosaics, and intricate painted designs that look like wallpaper.
We saw a traditional Rajasthan dance last night. The women dance with pots on their heads. It was quite impressive as one girl put more and more pots on top of her head and continued dancing.
This morning, we started at the Amber Fort & Palace where we rode an elephant up the hill. These elephants are brought in from the neighboring villages by their trainers as far as 10km away. The elephants all have official government numbers and are only allowed to make 5 trips up the hill with tourists.
This was where the Maharaja lived prior to the City Palace and we found the history interesting. There are 12 apartments for the Maharaja’s twelve wives. This was the most “touristy” place we have been so far on our trip (we leave for the Taj Mahal in Agra tomorrow). We have been fortunate in that most of the places we have visited have not been crowded.
We then drove to Samode where we toured the palace, had a delicious lunch, and rode a camel through the village. The camel ride was a lot of fun but we definitely felt like a spectacle. We were two of maybe 20 tourists at this palace so it was a lot quieter and we were the only tourists in the village as we rode through on a camel.
I should take a minute to talk about all of the animals we have seen in India. It is quite common to see cows, goats and pigs just wandering around the roads. We have also seen donkeys, camels and elephants. My favorite are the monkeys that you can see hanging out in trees, on ledges and on buildings.
We are now relaxing at the hotel. I caught a cold yesterday and am hoping that I can kick it quickly. We have an early morning start tomorrow as it is a 5 ½ hour drive to Agra. We are going to see the Taj Mahal!
South India
I’m back online! I wasn’t getting any service on my PDA in Kerela nor did the hotels we stayed in have Internet access. We are now in Northern India about to start our adventure here but I want to catch you up on our adventures in Southern India …Backwater Cruise
Arriving in Cochin from Mumbai, there was a noticeable difference in temperature (warmer) and in vegetation (a lot greener and lusher). We drove from Cochin to the Backwaters to start our cruise.
The scenery through the canals and lakes is breathtaking. There is lush vegetation - rice fields and banana trees. There were houses on either side and we could watch the locals going about their daily tasks – washing their clothes in the river and kids swimming and playing. On the waters we passed locals in their smaller boats as well as other tour boats. Although there were other tour boats, it was quite peaceful and not overcrowded. The tourist boats were all in the local style so blended into the environment. It was a nice change of pace from busy Mumbai.
The boat cruise was incredibly relaxing and we were completely spoiled. We had a private 80 ft boat all to ourselves with our own captain, chef, and waiter. We watched the sun set and rise from our private deck. We even had a plasma TV on board but didn’t feel the need to turn it on (which is surprisingly especially for Young). The meals our chef cooked for us were among the best we have had in India.
Periyar
Spice Plantation and Elephant Ride
On the drive from Alleppey to Periyar we passed many tea plantations. In addition to being a beautiful site, I was amazed to learn that tea leaves are picked by hand. I will have a new appreciation as I drink my next cup of tea. For those who may not know, “chai” is actually tea. So, if you order a chai in India, you are ordering a cup of tea. If you want to order what we know in North America as a “chai latte”, you can either order a “Marsala Chai” or “Chai with cardamom and cinnamon”.
Our first stop in Periyar was to visit a spice plantation where we not only got a personal guided tour of the various spices and fruit that grow in this region but we got to ride an elephant.
It was really interesting to see all of the spices that we use in their natural form. We saw black pepper, cloves, cardamom, all spice, coffee, cocoa, vanilla beans. I love exotic fruit so seeing bananas, pineapples, mango, guava, papaya, jack fruit was fun for me to see. I have been eating a lot of fruit in India. I am sad that my favorite, mangos are not in season for another month. All of the fruit is so fresh - bananas picked straight from the trees and baby pineapples that were so sweet with none of the tartness. Annie, this is as good as Brazil! We have been drinking fresh watermelon and papaya juice : )
Cruise of Periyar National Park and Bullock cart ride
On Monday morning, we went for a two hour cruise at Periyar National Park looking for wildlife. The park is 700 square kms and there are only 45 tigers. We didn’t see any tigers but we did see an elephant, a lot of birds, deer, buffalo and wild boar.
In the afternoon, we had a bullock cart ride through a scenic village. On the way there, we drove through a wooded windy mountain road where we saw monkeys at the side of the road just hanging out.
For the second time on our trip, we felt very special. We were met by a driver, a guide and an assistant. This was a really fun part of our trip because we had a chance to hang out with these really nice people who were so happy to point out and explain all of the vegetation and animals we were seeing. We learned a lot and had a really nice time.
Cochin
It was a 4 ½ hour drive back to Cochin through windy, bumpy roads. I was happy when we finally arrived! We had a chance to rest and then went to a cooking lesson with Nimmy a famous Kerala chef. Again, we were lucky enough to have a private cooking lesson and have a chance to chat with Nimmy and her husband Paul. Nimmy showed us how to cook onion bhajis (Kara, I know this is one of your favorites) and lamb curry (really tender and mild in flavor). They were both delicious. Southern India cuisine is a bit lighter and they use coconut milk.
That evening, we went to see a Kathakali dance. Part of the fun is to watch the dancers put on their make-up. The traditional dance involves a lot of facial expressions and was interesting to see.
Kerela is unique because they democratically elected a Communist government. There are communist party flags and signs everywhere. From what we have seen and understand, the government is more of a Socialist government than Communist. Kerela is the wealthiest state in India and many different religions live here in harmony. It was really nice to see.
Yesterday morning, we did some site seeing around Cochin with a guide as well as our driver. The guide made our site seeing all the more interesting as she explained everything. We saw a church that started off Catholic by the Portuguese, the Dutch made it Protestant and the English made it Anglican and now it’s South Indian Anglican. It was a very simple church but it is significant because it was the first Christian church in India.
We went to the harbour where we saw Chinese fishing nets. Young gave it a try and claimed that it was a lot of work for 2 small fish!
We then went to a Jewish Synagogue. There used to be a Jewish population of around 3000 here but now there are only 13. What is significant is that the Jewish Synagogue is built on land given to them by the Indian royalty. It is right beside the Royal Palace and the Indian temple. The Jewish settlers played an important role in helping to export spices to Europe and North America. Previously, the spices were sold to the Chinese who then sold it to the Europeans and North Americans. The floor of the Synagogue is tiled with beautiful hand painted Chinese tiles and there are chandeliers of Italian glass.
Our final stop in Cochin was to visit the Royal Palace. We have been told that it is modest by standards in Northern India. There were beautiful murals painted on the walls of Indian mythology which I find fascinating.
One more thing, since I made a big deal of shopping in my earlier blog written in Mumbai, I thought I’d provide an update. We have found that if you want to buy the “best” of anything in India, it is the same as buying the best from North America or Europe – very expensive. We were shown Pashmina scarves that cost over $300 and beautiful silk rugs (medium size) for $5000. Ann Marie, we have not purchased a silk rug (if we do, you can be assured that we will not be purchasing the “best” quality) and Eric, Young is still holding firmly onto his thrifty husband torch. $5000 is a whole new adventure somewhere for us – maybe Southeast Asia or Africa. Amber and Min, I did buy a couple of Kurtees and am looking for more. I think they will be great to wear in Austin!
I am caught up! It is Thursday Feb 7 at 7am and we are going to be doing some site seeing around Udaiper today.
Doh! I just called down to reception and the Internet is down because of the cables that got cut under the sea. Here’s hoping that I can get this posted soon. : )
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Last Day in Mumbai
This week has been busy with both internal and customer meetings.
To sum up, it has been work hard and play hard. I have had a busy schedule that has involved driving to see customers as much as a 3 hours away from Mumbai. At the same time, I have spent a relaxing night at an exclusive resort in the Mountains called Ambby Valley, eaten at amazing restaurants and have gotten to know and laugh with my colleagues in India.
I have final meetings at the office today and tonight have been invited to D&B India's big event of the year, their launch of the top 500 companies in India awards presentation and banquet.
I love my job but have to admit that I am looking forward to my 2 week vacation that starts tomorrow. : ) Between the stress of getting all of my projects to a point where I can be away for 3 weeks, the hectic schedule while in India and responding to the other International markets in the early morning and late in the evening (not to mention the jet lag), I'm tired!
I am really pleased with what was accomplished this week but I know that the memories I will carry with me are of the generous hospitality I received and the warm people at D&B India who I am happy to call friends as well as colleagues.
Monday, January 28, 2008
We are in India!
We arrived in Mumbai last night after a 4 hour flight from Austin to Newark, a 4 hour layover, and a 13 hour flight from Newark to Mumbai. Both the D&B office as well as our hotel are very close to the airport. The hospitality of the D&B India team has been amazing. They helped take care of all the arrangements for this week in Mumbai including sending a driver to pick us up and called while we were being driven to the hotel to welcome us to India.
After settling in, we ate a late dinner at the hotel. We have been told that the best restaurants in India are in the top hotels. Last night we had the best chicken curry we've ever tasted. For us foodies, this is the best way to start an adventure in a new country.
We managed to get some sleep and set off after a quick workout (well, Helen anyway) and breakfast to explore Mumbai. We hired a taxi to take us around. Mumbai is an assault on your senses with the smell of the pollution from all the vehicles, all of the honking, and new things to see every direction you look. I have to say that we have been to many places but I think driving in India is the scariest. No where else is it more true that the lines on the road are "for suggestion only". We are amazed that the cars are not more beat up.
Our first stop was to see an area where all of the laundry is done. There were so many people washing clothes. It was an amazing to see all of the action.
We drove to Victoria Terminus which is the municipal train station in the middle of Mumbai. In the words of Lonely Planet, "If there ever was a building that summed up the city, it would be Victoria Terminus. This extravagant Victorian-Gothic fantasy falls somewhere between Notre Dame and the Taj Mahal, with a hint of fairy-tale castle thrown in for good measure".
When we parked the car, we saw a carpet store directly across the street. Young and I decided to check it out. To my surprise, Young started to have them pull out carpets and proceeded to tell them what he liked and disliked and asked my opinion. He then started asking for price and started negotiating. This was surprising because a) we had never talked about purchasing a carpet in India, b) it is a relatively expensive purchase and for those of you who know my husband, he's pretty thrifty c) he knows almost nothing about carpets (but we found out he apparently likes the silk carpets over the wool ones), and d) he usually hates shopping! He would have purchased a carpet (maybe even two) right there and then in our first store if I hadn't pulled him out.
I realized that my biggest fear when shopping is that I won't get what I paid for. I am going to do some research on carpets and talk to my D&B colleagues in India before purchasing.
We then proceeded to the Gateway of India. It is Mumbai's most famous landmark and was built for a one-off visit by a foreign monarch. It is in the process of being restored so unfortunately, we couldn't get a picture without all of the construction. We realized that we stick out as foreigners when a lady approached us and asked if she could take a picture of us with her daughter (we did pose with her).
Behind the Gateway of India is another famous landmark in Mumbai, the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower (Taj Mahal hotel). This historic hotel is considered one of Mumbai's finest. The inside of the hotel is beautiful as are the shops with the likes of LV. Again, I don't quite know what was with my husband today (but I like it!) he bought me a beautiful pashmina from one of the hotel shops.
Also in the same neighborhood is a street "the causeway" along which are many stalls selling all sorts of interesting things. It was fun to walk through but we didn't buy anything.
We started driving back north via the scenic route on Marine Drive stopping to take pictures along the way. We drove to Bandra and had lunch at an amazing place recommended by the Lonely Planet called Moti Mahal (Turner & Waterfield Rd). Everything was delicious. It was cheaper and in our humble opinion, better than our meal at the Hyatt Regency. It was the best Dal we have ever had. I have a bad feeling that it was due to the amount of cream but I'm going to try not to think about that.
That brings us back to the hotel where we are now, having had a nap (we only got a few hours sleep last night) and reflecting on the day. Mumbai is an amazing place. When a tuck tuck overturned in front of us, our taxi driver as well as many others got out of their cars and ran to help. Thankfully, everyone was OK. It was only another example of the kindness we have seen in these people after only a day. The poverty is hard to see, especially when children are begging in the streets. I hope there never comes a time when this doesn't bother me.
I am going to sign off now and try to load a few of the pictures we took today into this blog. I am looking forward to meeting my colleagues at D&B India tomorrow and going to meet some of our largest Hoover's customers. I'm not sure what Young will get up to tomorrow but I know that he will enjoy exploring this facinating city and tasting more of the amazing food.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Planning for India
I'm so excited! Young and I leave in a couple of weeks for India! We had our travel consultation doctor's appointment today. 2 shots in each arm, typhoid and malaria pills, and $700 later, we left the doctor's office. Ouch!
We leave Austin on Jan 26 and will arrive in Mumbai the evening of Jan 27. We will be in Mumbai until Sat Feb 2nd when we will leave for 2 weeks vacation to explore India. I have attached our itinerary.
Feb 2nd: Mumbai – Cochin (Kochi) – Backwaters cruise. Your domestic air tickets are couriered to your Mumbai hotel. Board the mid-morning flight to Cochin on your own. Arrive at Cochin and you are greeted at the airport by an ETI facilitator and then ushered to a waiting vehicle and its driver. The next few days plans are briefly reviewed and the facilitator hands over travel documents such as your hotel vouchers to you. You drive to Alleppey & board your houseboat. Relax and have a great time till the next morning as you cruise the amazing backwaters. The cook and other staff make sure that all your needs are taken care of, while serving you with delicious Kerala cuisine.
Feb 3rd: Backwaters – Periyar. Disembark from houseboat in the morning and proceed on a drive to Periyar National Park. Arrive at Thekkady in the early afternoon. Check into your lodge. Periyar wildlife sanctuary is located around a picturesque artificial lake that was formed in 1895 by building a dam on the Periyar River. The terrain is hilly and the elevation of the park ranges from a few hundred feet to about 6000 feet above sea level. The lake occupies the valleys of the thickly forested hills, serving as a permanent source of water for wildlife in the Park. Although it falls under “Project Tiger”, the main attractions of the park are definitely Elephants. Periyar is home to just under a thousand elephants and also over 60 other mammal species including tigers, bison, deer, wild boar, and wild dog. There are over 300 species of birds, and even 160 species of butterflies. Prominent among the birds are Cormorants, Kingfishers, Darters, the great Malabar Hornbill, and the racket-tailed Drongoes.
Late afternoon – Enjoy an boat cruise on Periyar Lake and observe wildlife.
Feb 4th: Periyar. Start your day with a guided tour of a spice plantation.
Afternoon - visit a scenic village that lies hidden in the valley behind the mountains of Periyar Tiger Reserve.You will travel in a bullock cart and the ancient local boat, a Coracle. The village is rich in bird diversity and has diverse agricultural crops such as mango, tamarind, onion, sunflower, jasmine and dozens of other fruits and vegetables. The village will take your breath away when the guides start to interpret how farming has woven itself inextricably with the culture and the life of the natives. Return to your Lodge in the evening.
Feb 5th: Periyar – Cochin. Check out of your hotel in the morning and drive back to Cochin. Arrive at Cochin in the afternoon and check in to your hotel.Evening - Drive to watch a Kathakali dance (the art of storytelling through dance) performance. After the show, you are driven to dinner with a famous Keralan chef and her family at their home. A cooking lesson is included.
Feb 6th: Cochin – Udaipur. Check out from your hotel in the morning and proceed on a City Tour of Cochin. The tour begins from the Jewish Synagogue (closed on Fridays & Saturdays) built in 1568. Next to the synagogue is Kochi’s fascinating Jew Street, with it’s collection of antique stores and other reminders of a past that has pretty much disappeared from this area.
Also visit the St. Francis Church, established by the Portuguese Franciscan friars in 1503. Vasco Da Gama was buried in the courtyard of this European church, one of the first built in India. Visit the Chinese fishing nets. More than a century old and still in use, they are a great part of this tour.
Afternoon - Board the flight to Mumbai. Connect with the flight to Udaipur.
Feb 7th: Udaipur. Enjoy a city tour, including a tour of the City Palace. At this Palace complex, explore the gorgeous rooms with mirrored walls and ivory doors, windows with colored glass, inlaid marble balconies and the peacock courtyard. Visit the temple of the Sun God and be amazed by its erotic sculptures. You also visit the lovely Sahelion-ki-bari gardens and the local Museum.Check in to your hotel.
There is a break for lunch.Late afternoon - cruise on Lake Pichola and visit Jag Mandir.Udaipur is famous for its artists and paintings, including exquisite miniatures
Feb 8th: Udaipur –Jaipur. Fly to Jaipur in the morning. Arrive at Jaipur and proceed for a city tour of the walled city of Jaipur, including the magnificent City Palace. Visit the unique Jantar Mantar magnificent stone observatory built by Raja Jai Singh in 1728. View the ‘Hawa Mahal’ (Palace of the Wind), the intriguing facade built in 1799 to allow royal ladies to view the city and bazaar from the windows. Continue the tour to visit the City Palace, the former royal residence (a part of it is still occupied by the Royal family and is not accessible to the public), built in a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles. This immense complex also houses a number of museums that offer a large and impressive collection of miniature paintings, costumes, and armory. Check in to your hotel after the tour.Jaipur is famous for its carpets, jewelry, & handicrafts.
Evening – Watch the show at your hotel and then drive to have dinner with an Traditional Rajasthani family at their home. Or drive to a cultural show and dinner.
Feb 9th: Jaipur. Start your day with an excursion to Amber Fort & Palace, located 12 kilometers from the center of the City. Arrive at the complex well before 9 a.m. so as to be able to partake in the elephant back ascent. The Fort was originally built by Raja Mansingh and is one of the finest examples of Rajput architecture. Enjoy the ascent to the palace on the back of a brightly caparisoned elephant. Visit the chambers and hallways of the Palace which are famous for their design and decorations.From here you will proceed on a drive to Samode for sightseeing and a camel back (or camel cart) safari through local villages. Please bear in mind that there are no sand dunes in this area.
Enjoy a Rajasthani lunch (included) at the Samode Palace.A guided tour of Samode Palace and the other monuments in the area is included. Drive back to Jaipur in the late afternoon.
Feb 10th: Jaipur – Agra. Check out from the hotel in the morning and proceed on a drive to Agra. Stop at Fatehpur Sikri for a tour. This deserted, red sandstone city, built by Emperor Akbar, between 1570 and 1585, is a haunting reminder of its brief and glorious past. Visit the towering Bulund Darwaza (The Gate of Victory), which is set in the south wall. In the northern part of the courtyard is the superb white marble tomb of Shaik Salim Chishti, built in 1570.Arrive at Agra in the afternoon and check in to your hotel.
Late afternoon - Visit one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the incomparable Taj Mahal. The world’s greatest monument dedicated to love, the Taj Mahal was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1653 AD as a memorial to his beloved queen, Mumtaz Mahal. This pure white marble mausoleum took 22 years and 22,000 craftsmen to build.Tour the amazing monument and its surroundings till it is time to admire the sun’s rays setting on the Taj Mahal’s façade.
Agra is famous for its marble art & manufacturing of the same.
Feb 11th: Agra – Delhi – Haridwar. Check out from your hotel in the morning and visit the original red sandstone fort in North India, the Agra Fort. It was built in 1565 by Emperor Akbar, the greatest Mughal ruler of India. Its maze of courtyards, marble mosque, and private chambers all serve as reminders of the grandeur of the Mughal Empire.
From here proceed on a drive to Delhi station to board the late afternoon (3:30 pm) express train – four hour journey - to Haridwar. Arrive at Haridwar and transfer to your room overlooking the Ganga at the Haveli.
Feb 12th: Haridwar. Temple visit (Visit to Mansa Devi, Chandi Temple, and Daksha Mandir in Kankhal. Maya Devi Temple, one of the 52 Shaktipeethas revered by Hindus as the sites where the body parts of Sati fell. This temple dates back to the 11th century.Afternoon - Visit the Various Ghats of Haridwar and interact with local priests.
Ghats – endless stone steps sweep imperiously down to the water’s edge. These steps are the legendary Ghats of Haridwar. Every Ghat has a story to tell. Sit on the Ghat and watch life go by. Hindu rituals are rendered particularly sacred if performed at the Ghats of Haridwar. A newborn is named at a Namkaran ceremony and a young boy gets his head shaved at his Mundan ceremony. Newly weds throw garlands into the river. But the ones performed most frequently are the rites for the dead - Shradh and Pindadaan
Evening - consultation with an astrologer
1800 Hrs: Har Ki Pauri - Attend the Evening Arti Ceremony at Har Ki Pauri - Offerings can be arranged for you to perform the Arti.1900 Hrs: Evening Arti - Har-Ki-Pauri (“Footsteps of the God”) is the main Ghat, with bridges and walkways connecting smaller islands in the riverbed. Popular legend says that Lord Vishnu left his footprint at Har-ki-Pauri. Besides bathing at this site, the most spectacular view here is the Ganga Arti in the evening. Thousands of earthen lamps are floated in the water, which glitters like gold in the darkness.1930 Hrs: Religious Discourse
Feb 13th: Haridwar – Rishikesh - Haridwar. Experience a full day at Rishikesh with your guide and vehicle. Tour the various Temples, Ashrams, & Ghats of Rishikesh. Return to your hotel in the evening.
Feb 14th: Haridwar – Delhi – International. Check out of the Haveli and board the early morning (6:15 am) express train – five hour journey - to Delhi. Arrive at Delhi in the afternoon and check in to your hotel.
There is a break for lunch.Afternoon - Start your exploration of India with a city tour of New Delhi that begins with a drive past Safdarjang’s Tomb (1753 AD) while driving to the Qutab Minar (1193 A.D.) which is a striking medieval tower of victory of Persian architectural style and is 73 m high. Within the Qutab complex, amidst the ruins of Quwat-ul-Islam mosque, stands the Iron pillar which has stood the vagaries of weather and has not rusted over 1500 years. Later, visit the Tomb Moghul Emperor Humayun and then drive through Lutyens New Delhi which includes the Embassy area (Diplomatic enclave), Government buildings, India Gate, a golden domed Sikh Temple (Bangla Sahib Gurudwara), Birla Temple and Connaught Place, which is New Delhi’s main shopping area.
Feb 15th: Delhi – International flight. Check out from your hotel by noon. After early lunch, proceed for a city tour of Old Delhi that includes visits to the Jama Masjid (1650 AD) which is the largest mosque in India, and the amazing Red Fort (1639-48) which was the seat of the Moghul Empire for more than 250 years. Enjoy a rickshaw ride along the alleys of the ancient bazaar at Chandni Chowk. Visit the bird hospital (located at of the Digambara Jain Temple opposite the entrance to the Red Fort) at the east end of Chandni Chowk. You also visit the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi (Raj Ghat).
We leave Austin on Jan 26 and will arrive in Mumbai the evening of Jan 27. We will be in Mumbai until Sat Feb 2nd when we will leave for 2 weeks vacation to explore India. I have attached our itinerary.
Feb 2nd: Mumbai – Cochin (Kochi) – Backwaters cruise. Your domestic air tickets are couriered to your Mumbai hotel. Board the mid-morning flight to Cochin on your own. Arrive at Cochin and you are greeted at the airport by an ETI facilitator and then ushered to a waiting vehicle and its driver. The next few days plans are briefly reviewed and the facilitator hands over travel documents such as your hotel vouchers to you. You drive to Alleppey & board your houseboat. Relax and have a great time till the next morning as you cruise the amazing backwaters. The cook and other staff make sure that all your needs are taken care of, while serving you with delicious Kerala cuisine.
Feb 3rd: Backwaters – Periyar. Disembark from houseboat in the morning and proceed on a drive to Periyar National Park. Arrive at Thekkady in the early afternoon. Check into your lodge. Periyar wildlife sanctuary is located around a picturesque artificial lake that was formed in 1895 by building a dam on the Periyar River. The terrain is hilly and the elevation of the park ranges from a few hundred feet to about 6000 feet above sea level. The lake occupies the valleys of the thickly forested hills, serving as a permanent source of water for wildlife in the Park. Although it falls under “Project Tiger”, the main attractions of the park are definitely Elephants. Periyar is home to just under a thousand elephants and also over 60 other mammal species including tigers, bison, deer, wild boar, and wild dog. There are over 300 species of birds, and even 160 species of butterflies. Prominent among the birds are Cormorants, Kingfishers, Darters, the great Malabar Hornbill, and the racket-tailed Drongoes.
Late afternoon – Enjoy an boat cruise on Periyar Lake and observe wildlife.
Feb 4th: Periyar. Start your day with a guided tour of a spice plantation.
Afternoon - visit a scenic village that lies hidden in the valley behind the mountains of Periyar Tiger Reserve.You will travel in a bullock cart and the ancient local boat, a Coracle. The village is rich in bird diversity and has diverse agricultural crops such as mango, tamarind, onion, sunflower, jasmine and dozens of other fruits and vegetables. The village will take your breath away when the guides start to interpret how farming has woven itself inextricably with the culture and the life of the natives. Return to your Lodge in the evening.
Feb 5th: Periyar – Cochin. Check out of your hotel in the morning and drive back to Cochin. Arrive at Cochin in the afternoon and check in to your hotel.Evening - Drive to watch a Kathakali dance (the art of storytelling through dance) performance. After the show, you are driven to dinner with a famous Keralan chef and her family at their home. A cooking lesson is included.
Feb 6th: Cochin – Udaipur. Check out from your hotel in the morning and proceed on a City Tour of Cochin. The tour begins from the Jewish Synagogue (closed on Fridays & Saturdays) built in 1568. Next to the synagogue is Kochi’s fascinating Jew Street, with it’s collection of antique stores and other reminders of a past that has pretty much disappeared from this area.
Also visit the St. Francis Church, established by the Portuguese Franciscan friars in 1503. Vasco Da Gama was buried in the courtyard of this European church, one of the first built in India. Visit the Chinese fishing nets. More than a century old and still in use, they are a great part of this tour.
Afternoon - Board the flight to Mumbai. Connect with the flight to Udaipur.
Feb 7th: Udaipur. Enjoy a city tour, including a tour of the City Palace. At this Palace complex, explore the gorgeous rooms with mirrored walls and ivory doors, windows with colored glass, inlaid marble balconies and the peacock courtyard. Visit the temple of the Sun God and be amazed by its erotic sculptures. You also visit the lovely Sahelion-ki-bari gardens and the local Museum.Check in to your hotel.
There is a break for lunch.Late afternoon - cruise on Lake Pichola and visit Jag Mandir.Udaipur is famous for its artists and paintings, including exquisite miniatures
Feb 8th: Udaipur –Jaipur. Fly to Jaipur in the morning. Arrive at Jaipur and proceed for a city tour of the walled city of Jaipur, including the magnificent City Palace. Visit the unique Jantar Mantar magnificent stone observatory built by Raja Jai Singh in 1728. View the ‘Hawa Mahal’ (Palace of the Wind), the intriguing facade built in 1799 to allow royal ladies to view the city and bazaar from the windows. Continue the tour to visit the City Palace, the former royal residence (a part of it is still occupied by the Royal family and is not accessible to the public), built in a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles. This immense complex also houses a number of museums that offer a large and impressive collection of miniature paintings, costumes, and armory. Check in to your hotel after the tour.Jaipur is famous for its carpets, jewelry, & handicrafts.
Evening – Watch the show at your hotel and then drive to have dinner with an Traditional Rajasthani family at their home. Or drive to a cultural show and dinner.
Feb 9th: Jaipur. Start your day with an excursion to Amber Fort & Palace, located 12 kilometers from the center of the City. Arrive at the complex well before 9 a.m. so as to be able to partake in the elephant back ascent. The Fort was originally built by Raja Mansingh and is one of the finest examples of Rajput architecture. Enjoy the ascent to the palace on the back of a brightly caparisoned elephant. Visit the chambers and hallways of the Palace which are famous for their design and decorations.From here you will proceed on a drive to Samode for sightseeing and a camel back (or camel cart) safari through local villages. Please bear in mind that there are no sand dunes in this area.
Enjoy a Rajasthani lunch (included) at the Samode Palace.A guided tour of Samode Palace and the other monuments in the area is included. Drive back to Jaipur in the late afternoon.
Feb 10th: Jaipur – Agra. Check out from the hotel in the morning and proceed on a drive to Agra. Stop at Fatehpur Sikri for a tour. This deserted, red sandstone city, built by Emperor Akbar, between 1570 and 1585, is a haunting reminder of its brief and glorious past. Visit the towering Bulund Darwaza (The Gate of Victory), which is set in the south wall. In the northern part of the courtyard is the superb white marble tomb of Shaik Salim Chishti, built in 1570.Arrive at Agra in the afternoon and check in to your hotel.
Late afternoon - Visit one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the incomparable Taj Mahal. The world’s greatest monument dedicated to love, the Taj Mahal was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1653 AD as a memorial to his beloved queen, Mumtaz Mahal. This pure white marble mausoleum took 22 years and 22,000 craftsmen to build.Tour the amazing monument and its surroundings till it is time to admire the sun’s rays setting on the Taj Mahal’s façade.
Agra is famous for its marble art & manufacturing of the same.
Feb 11th: Agra – Delhi – Haridwar. Check out from your hotel in the morning and visit the original red sandstone fort in North India, the Agra Fort. It was built in 1565 by Emperor Akbar, the greatest Mughal ruler of India. Its maze of courtyards, marble mosque, and private chambers all serve as reminders of the grandeur of the Mughal Empire.
From here proceed on a drive to Delhi station to board the late afternoon (3:30 pm) express train – four hour journey - to Haridwar. Arrive at Haridwar and transfer to your room overlooking the Ganga at the Haveli.
Feb 12th: Haridwar. Temple visit (Visit to Mansa Devi, Chandi Temple, and Daksha Mandir in Kankhal. Maya Devi Temple, one of the 52 Shaktipeethas revered by Hindus as the sites where the body parts of Sati fell. This temple dates back to the 11th century.Afternoon - Visit the Various Ghats of Haridwar and interact with local priests.
Ghats – endless stone steps sweep imperiously down to the water’s edge. These steps are the legendary Ghats of Haridwar. Every Ghat has a story to tell. Sit on the Ghat and watch life go by. Hindu rituals are rendered particularly sacred if performed at the Ghats of Haridwar. A newborn is named at a Namkaran ceremony and a young boy gets his head shaved at his Mundan ceremony. Newly weds throw garlands into the river. But the ones performed most frequently are the rites for the dead - Shradh and Pindadaan
Evening - consultation with an astrologer
1800 Hrs: Har Ki Pauri - Attend the Evening Arti Ceremony at Har Ki Pauri - Offerings can be arranged for you to perform the Arti.1900 Hrs: Evening Arti - Har-Ki-Pauri (“Footsteps of the God”) is the main Ghat, with bridges and walkways connecting smaller islands in the riverbed. Popular legend says that Lord Vishnu left his footprint at Har-ki-Pauri. Besides bathing at this site, the most spectacular view here is the Ganga Arti in the evening. Thousands of earthen lamps are floated in the water, which glitters like gold in the darkness.1930 Hrs: Religious Discourse
Feb 13th: Haridwar – Rishikesh - Haridwar. Experience a full day at Rishikesh with your guide and vehicle. Tour the various Temples, Ashrams, & Ghats of Rishikesh. Return to your hotel in the evening.
Feb 14th: Haridwar – Delhi – International. Check out of the Haveli and board the early morning (6:15 am) express train – five hour journey - to Delhi. Arrive at Delhi in the afternoon and check in to your hotel.
There is a break for lunch.Afternoon - Start your exploration of India with a city tour of New Delhi that begins with a drive past Safdarjang’s Tomb (1753 AD) while driving to the Qutab Minar (1193 A.D.) which is a striking medieval tower of victory of Persian architectural style and is 73 m high. Within the Qutab complex, amidst the ruins of Quwat-ul-Islam mosque, stands the Iron pillar which has stood the vagaries of weather and has not rusted over 1500 years. Later, visit the Tomb Moghul Emperor Humayun and then drive through Lutyens New Delhi which includes the Embassy area (Diplomatic enclave), Government buildings, India Gate, a golden domed Sikh Temple (Bangla Sahib Gurudwara), Birla Temple and Connaught Place, which is New Delhi’s main shopping area.
Feb 15th: Delhi – International flight. Check out from your hotel by noon. After early lunch, proceed for a city tour of Old Delhi that includes visits to the Jama Masjid (1650 AD) which is the largest mosque in India, and the amazing Red Fort (1639-48) which was the seat of the Moghul Empire for more than 250 years. Enjoy a rickshaw ride along the alleys of the ancient bazaar at Chandni Chowk. Visit the bird hospital (located at of the Digambara Jain Temple opposite the entrance to the Red Fort) at the east end of Chandni Chowk. You also visit the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi (Raj Ghat).
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